Greenspaces Trip Report
Autumn in Speyside   

October 19th to 26th 2024.

After many discussions at home it had been decided that this would be our last Speyside ‘sortie’ in its current format as home life was being re-evaluated as personal circumstances had changed (ie retiring).

With some returning clients and some new ones to this area it had a lot of familiarity to it thus making more like a trip with what had now become friends.

We had talked about running a tour in Perthshire in the future having made some really good contacts in that area. With species such as Beaver, Red Squirrel, Red Kite and Osprey in that area all in wonderful scenery it would be our tour destination next spring.

On our way up to the highlands the new sites of RSPB Skinflats, Black Devon wetlands both part of the amazing inner forth scheme were visited in preparation. The former had a high tide roost of 133 Curlew with a few other waders about, whilst the latter had a real mix of habitats with the wet marsh holding over 20 Snipe on our visit. Upon a local recommendation the village of Culroos on the Fife coast was also visited what a wonderful place with its links to kings and saints with it being part of an age-old pilgrim’s way.

Mobirise

Having done some local pre tour reconnaissance viewing it was clear that there were not many passerines about, something that was being echoed back home in Lincolnshire, with a cold spring and summer clearly insect numbers had taken a real decline.

On to the Tour, it certainly opened with a bang as we sought refuge from storm ‘Ashley’ which was battering the west coast of Scotland but having a lesser influence on us in the highlands. Cover was sought at the Loch Garten visitor centre, Avielochan and Insh Marshes. We saw our first Red Squirrels of the trip, lots of Chaffinches, Greenfinches and Coal Tits but no Crested Tits.

Our second day took us up to Spey Bay which was unusually quiet but for a Black Throated Diver on the sea, a couple of Bottlenose Dolphin splashes and a family group of Whooper Swans on the stubble field. A really good selection of Waders at Lossiemouth was followed by a trip to Loch Spynie where on the water a plethora of waterfowl were seen, probably the largest numbers we have ever seen there, but again the smaller birds were conspicuous by their absence with only a few Tree Sparrows being seen. So, it was back to the hotel to give a talk on the nature of East Anglia.

The following morning was free time as we were in the evening hide mammal watching. On our travels we tried to find Crested Tit but again a miserable failure. However, from mid-afternoon our bird and wildlife watching went into overdrive. At Insh Marshes we had great views of two Hen Harriers and also managed to find a male Merlin which co-operated by sitting on a low tree stump for some considerable time.

So it was onward to the hide with evening tea, drinks and toilet visits completed we settled into the hide, bang ! we had our first Pine Marten within five minutes of entering the hide and what followed can only be described as unprecedented as we had a full 90 minutes of full on Marten activity from three individuals with them all being in full view at the same time, you don’t get that on Springwatch! It was truly incredible to watch their individual behaviours and their interaction with the six Badgers and the occasional sighting of the resident Woodmice. Suffice to say we all went home smiling like Cheshire Cats.
A slightly more relaxed approach to the next day saw us crawl (in the vehicle) around Lochindorb, it was a hard task to find any Red Grouse but eventually three were located staying in situ for the guests to get great views of them. A freshly traffic killed Mountain Hare allowed me to give the group a bit of hands-on field teaching before it was eventually left out as a food item.

Mobirise

Onwards we headed to one of our favourite cafes at the Three Bridges before heading into Strathdearn. Buzzards, Kestrels and Kites followed before we stood and watched Salmon in their river Findhorn spawning beds. Making our way lower down the strath stopping at the pine car park we had a sub adult Golden Eagle flying along the ridge, but it got even better at the bottom carpark as two sub adult Goldies were flying in tandem along the ridge and further into the strath, they then turned around with one coming back just half way up the hillside showing its colours against the heather clad slope. As its compatriot flew along the ridge suddenly it was joined by an immature White-Tailed Eagle giving great opportunities to contrast size and plumages for the entire party. Wow what a 24 hours of nature we had all just witnessed !

Mobirise

Our next day was crossing the Kessock Bridge onto the Black Isle always one of the highlights of the tour, with no Otters in attendance beneath the bridge, we pressed on for a brief view at Udale Bay, with loads of pink foots in the surrounding fields everything was well spread out with lots of intertidal mud to feed on. Onto Cromarty for a slice of local Scottish history, picnic and a bit of firth watching which produced a raft of over 1000 Eiders, a Black Guillemot and some Long-Tailed Ducks. As we approached Jemimaville the Scaup were back at the point with a couple of winter plumaged Slavonian Grebes in amongst them. Returning to Udale to complete the day the tide was coming in bringing the birds ever closer with a chance to sort all the wader species out right in front of our eyes.

Mobirise

Up early the following morning with guests looking for Black Grouse on the moor, but the weather had other ideas as an ethereal mist descended on our parking place, but we did have a Red Grouse walk across the layby in front of us almost taunting us with its presence. Back to the hotel, a hearty breakfast, then showing a fellow nature group where to find Red Squirrels we then headed back up to the Moray Coast stopping off to check the Black Grouse lek now that the weather had cleared. There they were 12 of them with two in a Rowan tree feasting on the plentiful supply of berries. Onward up to Hopeman where a varied selection of waders including our first Purple Sandpipers of the trip were seen. Back to the ‘Rocks’ at Burghead for a mix of waders and seaducks before we went to the harbour for our picnic. Looking across the bay towards Roseisle there was an exceptional wader roost on a sand bar containing over 1500 individuals, with Bar Tailed Godwits, Redshank, Knot and Curlew all well represented. We just had time to get to the dunes at Findhorn bay to see a few Gannets of differing ages diving just offshore before we went to the Eco Village shop.

Mobirise

With this being our last full day it was tour quiz night, with much mirth and laughter as some (as usual) funny questions popping up. Some very creditable scores followed with the winner getting a mounted print of a Red Grouse previously photographed at Lochindorb by yours truly!
It was a great trip, with its own identity made by a great blend of guests, even Elaine and I had learned to pace ourselves better than on previous occasions. We missed some obvious targets (Crested Tit) but the Martens and Eagles more than made up for it. The weather and Autumn colours were special, and we even managed to catch up with some friends who had previously worked at the hotel.
Our final total was a creditable 98 species of bird seen, but with a stop at WWT Caelaverock on the return home the personal list was105 with time spent on the Solway estuary always a pleasure. 

Mobirise

So with next year’s tours planned for West Norfolk in February and the new itinerary in Perthshire in May that is one that promises to see a different part of Scotland but incredibly rich in nature with Beavers, Red Kites, Red Squirrels and a host of others with some authentic Scottish historical sites thrown in for good measure ( Kelpies, Bannockburn, Stirling Castle and Culroos) it is one we are really looking forward to with many expressions of interest shown so far.       

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